Posts Tagged ‘Recipes’

Recipe For Wild Salmon With Pink Peppercorn Sauce

Thursday, August 26th, 2010

This recipe began as one of those serendipitous events when on holiday this July in Scotland.  We had one of those small kitchens that has no equipment and a very temperamental cooker, plus we had brought almost no ingredients with us.  Then around and about, you could find a few basic ingredients to work with but not much, so I was standing there with some wild caught salmon fillets from the Galloway Smokehouse and not much inspiration, with the family screaming the cottage down for some grub. 

Sophie came in for a glass of rosé wine and then I knew what to do and off I went – I put the fillets into a large vegetable pot, sliced some lemons and put these between the fillets, then sprinkled some salt and pepper over the fillets, poured in about an inch of wine and gently poached the salmon with the lid on the pot; delicious and everyone finished their plates, so job done.

Back in Yorkshire and with more ingredients to work with, I thought that perhaps you could work that simple recipe up a bit more and finish it off with a sauce and felt that a rosé wine and pink peppercorn sauce would do the trick.  I made it yesterday after getting some salmon from Carricks mobile fish truck at Ripon Market and it worked a treat.  I reckon you could also serve cold cooked salmon with a pink peppercorn hollandaise sauce.

Carrick's Mobile Fish Shop At Ripon Market

Carrick's Mobile Fish Shop At Ripon Market

For the poaching stock:

250ml / 8 fl oz rosé wine
125ml / 4fl oz water
4 slices of lemon
1 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
1tsp white peppercorns (whole)
1 blade mace
½ vanilla pod, sliced down centre (optional)

For the wild salmon:

1tbsp sunflower oil
25g / 1oz finely chopped shallots
4 salmon fillets (about 200g / 7oz each)
¼ tsp Sea salt
¼ tsp Coarsely milled black pepper
100ml / 4 fl oz double cream
1tbsp pink peppercorns, lightly crushed

1.  Put all the ingredients for the poaching stock in a pot and bring to the boil with the lid on the pot.  When it starts boiling, reduce the heat and leave to simmer gently for 30 minutes with the lid on, so letting all the flavours infuse into the stock.  You could skip this bit if you are pushed for time and go straight to the poaching of the salmon; in this case, I would replace the water-carrot-spice part with extra wine, i.e. just use 300ml / 10 fl oz rosé wine and the lemon slices and go straight to the next stage.

Ingredients For Poaching Stock

Ingredients For Poaching Stock

Finished Rose Salmon Poaching Stock

Finished Rose Salmon Poaching Stock

2.  Pre-heat the oven to 100oC/ 210oF and put a plate or serving dish in the oven to warm up for later.  Lightly oil a heavy bottomed, metal casserole dish and then sprinkle the chopped shallots over the base of the pan.  Place the salmon fillets on top of this and then season with some sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper.  Gently pour in the poaching stock (or rosé wine plus lemon slices) half way up the fillets, reserving any of the excess stock for later.  Put the lid onto the casserole dish and gently poach in the stock for 8 – 10 minutes, depending on the size of the salmon, but try not to overcook.  Lift out the poached salmon and place on a warm plate, cover in foil and keep warm in the pre-heated oven.

Salmon Fillets On Shallot Base

Salmon Fillets On Shallot Base

3.  Pour the juices into a clean pan through a sieve to remove the bits and add any of the excess stock reserved earlier.  Bring to the boil and reduce the liquid to about 150ml /¼ pint.  Add the cream and simmer until the sauce has a thin feel to it, but would still coat a coat for a bit.  Add the crushed pink peppercorns.  Check and adjust the seasoning, if necessary, but do not add black pepper under any circumstances as it will ruin the effect.

Crushing Pink Peppercorns In Pestle And Mortar

Crushing Pink Peppercorns In Pestle And Mortar

4.  Serve on warmed plates.  Firstly arrange the salmon fillets onto the plates, then pour over the sauce.  Serve with new potatoes, fresh green vegetables or salad – perhaps a watercress salad.

Organic Salmon In Pink Pepper Sauce

Organic Salmon In Pink Pepper Sauce

Axel’s Raspberry Cheesecake Recipe

Thursday, August 19th, 2010

My sister and her family came to visit at the weekend, so I was scrabbling around trying to come up with a summery pudding to create, while the rain was gushing down outside in torrents.  I decided that roast chicken with all the trimmings, followed by a cheesecake was the answer, but with some summer fruits inside the cheesecake and a bright red coulis drizzled over it. 

I toyed with the idea of making the raspberry coulis first, then mixing that into the cream and making a pink cheesecake, which would have gone down a storm with the girls, but wimped out as I preferred the idea of getting bites of tart raspberry in clusters of flavour and differing textures, running through the smoothness of the cream cheese filling. 

Cheesecakes are remarkably easy to make and seem to be generally popular with children, and homemade ones are much tastier than shop bought versions that always seem really heavy, then sit like a lump inside your tummy like a lead weight for hours afterwards. You do not need to use raspberries and can substitute them for other summer fruits, like blackcurrants, blackberries or strawberries, so adjust the recipe accordingly.  Similarly, you do not need the coulis and could just serve it naked and pure, or with a nice scoop of vanilla ice cream. 

Axel Steenberg’s Summer Fruit Cheesecake Recipe

For the base:

150g / 5½ oz digestive biscuits (or in US, Graham cracker or Nilla wafer)
30g / 1oz pecan nuts
75g / 3oz unsalted butter
1 tsp Steenbergs organic Fairtrade pure vanilla extract (that’s the sales pitch done; or any other good quality vanilla extract)

For the cream cheese filling:

350g / 11oz full fat cream cheese
100g / 3½ oz soured cream
150g / 5oz caster sugar
4 medium eggs
1tsp pure natural vanilla extract
Juice from ½ lemon (rest is used in making raspberry coulis)
Zest from 1 lemon

Good sized handful of fresh raspberries
4 pinches of Steenbergs organic mixed spice

For the raspberry coulis
350g / 12oz fresh raspberries, picked over and washed
45g / 1½ oz granulated sugar
Juice from ½ lemon
70ml / 2½ oz water

1.  Preheat the oven to 180oC / 350oF.

2.  Lightly grease and line the base of a 20cm / 8 inch round sandwich tin, that has a springform surround.  Place into a fridge to chill, whilst you prepare the biscuit crumb base.

3.  Place the biscuits and pecan nuts into a food processor and whizz until they reach a smallish crumb.  Take from the food processor, place into a bowl and then add the organic Fairtrade vanilla extract and melted butter.  Mix well until all the crumbs are decently coated with liquid – I use a knife for this stage.

Ingredients for cheesecake base

Ingredients for cheesecake base

Pour the melted butter into the crumb mix

Pour the melted butter into the crumb mix

4.  Get the lined cake tin from the fridge.  Tip the crumb mixture into the pan, then press the mix into the base and all the corners until even and nicely pressed down.  Put the lined tin into the fridge to harden.

Pressing cheesecake crumb mix into cake tin

Pressing cheesecake crumb mix into cake tin

5.  Now measure out all the ingredients for the filling except the raspberries or other fruit.  Put all of these into a mixing bowl or processor and mix/process until smooth and well mixed together.  It is worth scraping down the sides a couple of times with a spatula to make sure that everything has mixed thoroughly.

Ingredients for cheesecake filling

Ingredients for cheesecake filling

6.  Go and get the crumb base from the fridge, then evenly place a handful of fresh raspberries over the biscuity base.  Now pour over the cream cheese mix gently.  Afterwards, I then go over the raspberries to try and even them out a bit; do not overdo this tidying up, but you do not want someone to get all the raspberries, while someone else goes without – that would be really bad form.  Sprinkle delicately 4 pinches of mixed spice over the top of the cheesecake filling.

Pouring the cheesecake mix over crumb base and raspberries

Pouring the cheesecake mix over crumb base and raspberries

Cheesecake ready for baking with mixed spice sprinkled on top

Cheesecake ready for baking with mixed spice sprinkled on top

7.  Put centrally into the oven and bake for 25 – 30 minutes until just set.  Remove from oven and leave to cool completely, then remove the springform outside ring of the cake and place the cake (still on its base) into the fridge to chill through.

Baked cheesecake just out of oven

Baked cheesecake just out of oven

8.  While it is cooling, it is time to make the raspberry coulis.  Place the raspberries into a pan, together with the lemon juice, water and sugar.  Bring to the boil and simmer with the lid on for 10 minutes.  Leave to cool thoroughly.  While it is cooling, check the sweetness of the raspberries and adjust sugar level if necessary as they can be really tart.

Ingredients for raspberry coulis

Ingredients for raspberry coulis

Lovely cooked raspberries

Lovely cooked raspberries

9.  Process the raspberries throughly to a smooth paste either with a hand held processor or in a larger processor.  Now sieve the raspberry paste into a jug or bowl to remove the seeds.  You will need to squish the juice through with a tablespoon.  Put into the fridge to cool.

Sieving raspberries for raspberry coulis

Sieving raspberries for raspberry coulis

10.  Before serving remove from the fridge to warm up a little.  Cut into smallish slices and place onto a plate, then drizzle over some of the raspberry coulis.  I served the cheesecake with some homemade shortbread for added texture.

Raspberry Cheesecake With Raspberry Coulis

Raspberry Cheesecake With Raspberry Coulis

A Recipe For Meatballs In Tomato And Red Pepper Sauce

Monday, August 16th, 2010

Cooking at home differs from fancy cuisine in restaurants in that it is about compromise.  While a top notch chef does not need to compromise on ingredients and quality, at home you need to juggle your precious time with what you have got available in your storecupboard and can find in the shops.  Also, you need to take into account what your family will and won’t eat; in a restaurant, the customer can chose his/her own menu to suit their mood and likes/dislikes from the menu, you have got to make one meal that satisfies everyone.

This recipe came out of that need to compromise.  My sister’s two girls do not really like potatoes and will eat pasta forever, while Jay wanted meatballs.  So I came up with meatballs in tomato sauce with spaghetti.  While everyone ate the pasta, some ignored the meatballs but enjoyed the tomato and red pepper sauce that they had been cooked in.  Success all round.

Ingredients For The Tomato And Red Pepper Sauce:

1tbsp cold pressed organic olive oil
1 medium sized onion, roughly chopped
1 garlic clove, roughly chopped
1 red pepper, topped and tailed, deseeded and roughly chopped
½ tsp natural sea salt
½ tsp coarsely ground organic black pepper
2 bay leaves (I used fresh from garden)
1 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme leaves (I used fresh from garden; if using dry use ½ tsp)
2 tins / 800g / 1lb 12oz chopped organic tomatoes (near enough 2lbs)
2tbsp white wine (optional)
1tbsp soured cream

Ingredients For The Meatballs:

500g / 1lb 2oz minced beef steak (organic and locally sourced, if possible)
1 small onion, finely chopped (or even minced to hide from fussy kids)
50g /  2 oz breadcrumbs (ideally use bread that’s gone slightly over rather than fresh, as they are more flavoursome plus it’s less wasteful)
1 egg
½ tsp organic nutmeg powder
½ tsp organic mace powder
½ tsp natural sea salt
½ tsp freshly fine ground organic white pepper
1tbsp organic sunflower oil

Ingredients For Tomato Sauce

Ingredients For Tomato Sauce

1.  In a decent sized pan, add the organic olive oil and heat under a medium heat.  Add the chopped onion and garlic and cook gently for 5 minutes, then add the chopped red pepper and cook, stirring regularly for another 3 minutes.

2.  Add the herb and spice flavours – sea salt, organic ground black pepper, thyme and bay leaves.  Stir and cook for another 1 minute.

Frying Base Ingredients For Tomato And Red Pepper Sauce

Frying Base Ingredients For Tomato And Red Pepper Sauce

3.  Add the white wine and chopped tomatoes, mix together, cover with a lid, then raise temperature until tomatoes just start boiling.  Reduce heat and allow to simmer with the lid on for about 15 minutes.  Leave to cool.  While cooling, taste and adjust flavourings if you feel it is needed.

4.  Remove the bay leaves.  Then using a food processor or hand held blender, chop the sauce to a fine puree.  Stir in the soured cream until thoroughly mixed through.

Pureed Tomato And Red Pepper Sauce

Pureed Tomato And Red Pepper Sauce

5.  The best time to start making the meatballs is while the tomatoes are hubbling away for 15 minutes.  Put all the ingredients into a large mixing bowl and mixed through completely.  Cover and put into fridge for about 30 minutes to let the flavours flow through.

Mixture For Meat Balls

Mixture For Meatballs

6.  Take from fridge and scoop out dessert spoon sized amounts of meatball mix and roll into balls and put onto a plate.  You can then put these into the fridge to cool again for 30 minutes which will make the meatballs firmer and less likely to collapse while cooking, but this is not necessary.

Shaped Meat Balls

Shaped Meat Balls

7.  Warm an oven to 100oC  / 212oF.  Bring the tomato sauce to the boil and allow to simmer. 

8.  In a heavy bottomed frying pan, tip the organic sunflower oil and heat until hot.  Lightly fry all the meatballs until golden brown and cooked through.  Put the cooked meatballs on a baking tray in the oven to keep warm while you are cooking the others.

Frying The Meat Balls

Frying The Meat Balls

9.  Put the meatballs delicately into the tomato sauce and cook in the sauce for 15 minutes.

Meatballs In Tomato And Red Pepper Sauce

Meatballs In Tomato And Red Pepper Sauce

10.  Serve with pasta or rice and, perhaps, garnished with a little finely chopped parsley.

Meatballs In Tomato And Red Pepper Sauce With Spaghetti

Meatballs In Tomato And Red Pepper Sauce With Spaghetti

Recipe For Milk Shake

Sunday, August 15th, 2010
You spend hours and hours creating delicious home cooked food from scratch, buying the best ingredients you can find, then you hear you kids discussing the best type of chocolate or sweet and flavour of crisps (chips) in the back of the car*.  You feel deflated and slightly aggrieved that all that hard work is for nought.

Then, Jay, our eldest, says that he hates school chips (french fries) and much prefers Daddy’s home made fried potatoes, while Emily, our youngest, cannot eat enough of home-made roast chicken with all the trimmings made yesterday, and they both love home-made Yorkshire puddings.  Emily enjoys making a salad for us all today for lunch, while Jay even helped to mix the batter for baking cheesecake yesterday, which they both wolfed down greedily.

You justify yourself that it is all the fault of strong advertising that they see on the TV, plus the treat factor of eating what they rightfully call “bad food”.

Actually, I think it is only fair that you let your children have the choice and experience of eating all the manufactured foods as well, although strictly only once in a while.  You do not want them becoming cranky like you are yourself. 

So today, in the miraculous heat that appeared on this mid August day, after weeks and weeks of cold, rainy weather, and after the Premier League football season has recommenced, I decided that we should trial recipes for milkshakes for Emily’s birthday that’s coming up in October.  This was with some trepidation as it would open the floodgates to some seriously evil food groups, and lo and behold, I was dead right.  The chosen flavours were banana (me), strawberry (Soph), Snickers and separately Skittles (Jay) and for Emily Curly-Wurly and Rolos, respectively.

We played around with combinations of the basic ingredients and the recipe below is what we came up with; you can ignore the banana but we felt that it needed something to add some body to the milkshake, and a small amount of banana seemed to do the trick - too much and the banana flavour started coming through in the other flavours.  By the way, Jay could not finish the Skittles as they were too sweet and revolting, but they did enjoy the other flavours (“the horror, the horror, the horror” to paraphrase Kurtz in Apocalypse Now).

The Milk Shake Base

2 good sized scoops of vanilla ice cream, relatively soft scoop (we use Brymoor or Cream Of Yorkshire)
225ml / 1 cup full fat milk (don’t go all skinny and healthy here, as it’s pointless)
3cm / 1 inch of ripe banana

Your Flavours

This is really up to you, but it should be about 3 tablespoons in volume, so:

1 Curly-Wurly, 1 Pack of Rolos, 1 Snickers Bar
10 strawberries, ½ a banana

Or whatever you want, but some things really are just too sickly sweet, e.g. Skittles and Starburst.

Put all the ingredients into the bowl of a food processor or juicing machine and mix up thoroughly.

Ingredients For Milk Shake

Ingredients For Milk Shake

Preparing The Milk Shake Base

Preparing The Milk Shake Base

Jay Chopping Snickers Bar

Jay Chopping Snickers Bar

Milk Shake Ready For Whizzing

Milk Shake Ready For Whizzing

Mixing It Up

Mixing It Up

Sophie Enjoying Strawberry Milk Shake

Sophie Enjoying Strawberry Milk Shake

* For those intrigued, the answer for sweets/chocolate was Curly-Wurly, Snickers and Starburst and (for the crisps/chips) BBQ Beef Hula Hoops and Ready Salted and Cheese & Onion Walkers Crisps.  And they both love Green & Black’s Milk Chocolate and Dark Chocolate slabs of chocolate.

Recipe For Coronation Chicken

Saturday, August 14th, 2010

I had been looking for an excuse to try a recipe that I had pulled out of The Daily Telegraph from Xanthe Clay’s hunt for the Best British Recipes.  It is that classic of British fusion cooking and sentimentality for bygone Imperialism (rightly or wrongly) – Coronation Chicken.  Like many I have been brought up on the quickly put together using up of left over roast chicken – chop the meat into cubes, add some mayonnaise, some mango chutney and a few sultanas plus some curry powder or paste.  Great quick home food, but not particularly accomplished cuisine.

I claim no input into this other than to make it, but it really was worth the hassle as the delicate roasting and marinading create a wonderfully aromatic and sensual flavour, then the crème fraîche – mayonnaise mix was much nicer than mayonnaise on its own.  This recipe is from a reader of the Daily Telegaph called Simon Scutt and is simply brilliant, and while I made a few tweaks they were more out of having the wrong ingredients than anything else.

Recipe – Coronation Chicken
Serves 8 – 10 ( we were 12 including kids)

2 free range chickens
2 large oranges
2 organic bay leaves
2 Fairtrade organic cinnamon sticks
Olive oil
Salt & pepper (I used Steenbergs Perfect Salt)

For the stock:
1 large onion, chopped coarsely
2 cloves of garlic, chopped coarsely
1 glass of medium dry white wine
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp ground cumin
4 green cardamom pods, crushed lightly
1tsp Steenbergs Organic Madras Curry Powder
1 finely chopped, small dried red chilli (not the seeds – I actually used a Hungarian mild chilli as there were 6 kids ranging in age from 2 to 11 years old, but a Bird’s Eye Chilli would give it more heat)

For the marinade:
½ tsp saffron filaments
1tsp Fairtrade turmeric
115ml / 4 fl oz milk
115ml / 4 fl oz white wine (as above)
1tbsp finely chopped fresh coriander
2tbsp dried mango (or per actual Daily Telegraph recipe, use mango chutney)
2tbsp organic sultanas
2tbsp chopped dried apricot

For the dressing:
2tsp Steenbergs Organic Madras curry powder
2tsp ground coriander
400ml /14fl oz crème fraîche
200ml / 7fl oz mayonnaise

To garnish:
Chopped fresh coriander
Paprika
Salad leaves

Chicken Stuffed With Orange, Bay And Cinnamon

Chicken Stuffed With Orange, Bay And Cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 400C / 200F.  Quarter the oranges, scrunch up the bay leaf and crush the cinnamon quills and mix these up roughly.  Stuff them inside the chickens, then season the outside of the chickens with a little bit of the olive oil to moisten and some salt & pepper rubbed all over (I actually used some Steenbergs Perfect Salt Seasoning as it was to hand, but salt and pepper is all it needs).  Roast the chickens in the oven for 20 minutes per lb/500g.  Leave to cool then strip the carcasses of the chicken meat.  Chop the chicken into decently sized bite-sized pieces, i.e. not too small, and put into big dish and keep in fridge.

Now take a large pot and put in the dry stock seasonings and dry fry for a couple of minutes to bring out the volatile oils, then take off the heat.  Put into this pan the chicken carcasses and skin.  Then pour the white wine over it all and add enough water to cover the chicken caracasses fully.  Put the lid onto the pot, bring to the boil, then leave to hubble away for 2 hours.  Strain the stock and skim off the fat and boiling the stock vigorously reduce it down to about 500ml/ 1 pint.  Leave to cool.

Dry Roasting Spices

Dry Roasting Spices

Chicken Carcass Ready To Make Stock

Chicken Carcass Ready To Make Stock

Dried Fruits Being Stewed Gently

Dried Fruits Being Stewed Gently

Now, start making the marinade.  Heat the saffron and turmeric gently in a dry saucepan for a few seconds, then add the milk and bring to the boil.  Stir in the wine, coriander, mango, sultanas and apricots.  Simmer gently for 10 minutes until the dried fruits all plump up.  Leave this mixture to cool and then add to the cooled stock.  I actually blended this into a smooth sauce first, which is more like the original Coronation Chicken recipe from Constance Spry, but this version by Simon Scutt kept the fruit in nice small chunks.

Stir in the stock – marinade mixture into the chicken pieces.  Cover and leave overnight in the fridge.  This is the magic stage which pulls out as much flavour from the chicken as possible and gives a subtly luxuriant, Eastern flavour to the chicken pieces.

Next morning, heat the curry powder and coriander in a dry pan for a few minutes to become fragrant.  Add the crème fraîche and mayonnaise in a bowl and stir in the spices.  Fold this dressing into chicken and marinade, which has set into a light jelly overnight.  This takes a few minutes of gentle stirring.

Bring the Coronation Chicken to room temperature and serve with green salads and a cool rice-based salad.  You can use new potatoes as well, which is what we did, and served it along with cold poached salmon as well, for a classic English summer buffet spread.

Daily Telegraph's Coronation Chicken

Daily Telegraph's Coronation Chicken

Elsewhere In The Blogosphere – July 2010 (Part 2)

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

…I have done some culling of food blogs that I am following, where activity seems to have died down, while adding one new blog, Lemonpi, which has caught my eye, rather belatedly.

Lemonpi has an interesting recipe for Raspberry, White Chocolate And Lavender Muffins but I would like, at this time of year, to try it with fresh raspberries rather than frozen.  There’s also a great recipe Italian Chocolate Raisin Torte, while her Banana, Yoghurt and Mesquite Cake sounds fine and you can get mesquite meal from Goji King, but not sure if that will quite do the job so any other ideas would be great.

At Not Without Salt, Ashley was on vacation for most of July, but before leaving she posted an evily sweet looking recipe for Chocolate Cupcakes With Marshmallow Frosting; it reminds me of many happy days in my youth and recently with my kids, when happily toasting marshmallows over fires beside dens in the woods or around a campfire.  Then to come back to the summer fruits theme of Part 1 of this round up there’s a recipe for Raspberry Yoghurt Popsicles at Orangette taken from a David Lebovitz recipe.

Now if you’ve got a spare day, this is my recipe for the month which comes from the Smitten Kitchen Blog and is for Sweet And Smoky Oven Spareribs, which was awesome.  Firstly, if you have not got the 6 hours that the recipe required, just turn up the heat a bit to about 125C or 250F and cook for 4 hours – it still came out lovely and succulent, with the meat just sliding off the bone.  Secondly, take Deb’s advice and reduce the sugar and up the salt, which is what we did and it was just right; also, I ditched the sauce as it is heresy to have a barbecue sauce with ribs, plus it just did not need it.  Then there was the Thai Style Chicken Legs, which sounded great but didn’t the month just fly past.  Plus two gorgeously simple puddings, Raspberry Brown Sugar Gratin and Peach Blueberry Cobbler.

And Ree at The Pioneer Woman Cooks is a lady after my heart as she knows that custard is just the best, whether it’s a warm custard on your sweet fresh fruit crumble or a cold custard in a custard tart or in the richest of richest crème brûlée recipes that she shares with the blogging world.  Then she whips up a simple but glorious sounding Blackberry Cheesecake that seems so simple to make that I don’t know why I never seem to find the time. While I like the quick cheat Sixteen Minute Beef and Beans Burritos as it exemplifies what real, home food is about – getting well-balanced food to the table quickly with whatever ingredients are in the cupboard, and (in our house) that’s without the aide of a microwave.

And finally, I like the idea at Wild Yeast of Ginger-Pecan Sourdough Biscotti, perhaps with a sweet Vin Santo di Montepulciano.

Elsewhere In The Blogosphere – July 2010 (Part 1)

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

With the summer fruit rolling in, Raspberry Jam is being made at A Slice of Cherry Pie, while at Cannelle et Vanille Aran is inspired by a simple bowl of frozen raspberries and bakes delicious Gluten Free Raspberry Scones and a fancy Heirloom Tomato, Rice and Almond Tart – I am a sucker for these types of simple tarts that use beautiful in-season vegetables and I like the idea of trying the unusual base for this tart.  And what could be simpler and more inspiring than the Purple Corn Muffins and Poached Salmon Salad which are gorgeously colourful, full of bright harvest-time colours.

It’s been a weird summer here in North Yorkshire, with temperatures never really rising above 15C, so I have not really felt inspired by classic summertime foods like salads and cold fish etc, sticking more to warm salads and barbecued chicken and other meats.  But Aran’s salad and the Tomato and Einkorn Wheat (or Spelt) Salad at Chocolate & Zucchini makes me feel as though I am missing something important this year.  I have already mentioned the recipe for Almond Cake With Blueberry Coulis which seems a great alternative to my own Almond Cake recipe that took inspiration from many sources, but mainly David Lebovitz.

David Lebovitz’s recipe for Caramelized White Chocolate Cakes are my kind of pudding and would go down a storm with any guests, especially amongst children.  Or returning to the summer fruits theme, Vegan Strawberry Ice cream looks and sounds to die for and on the salads line, a recipe for Classic Salad Nicoise, which is something I have always loved being a sucker for anchovies and their deep, umami and salty taste.  Then David Lebovitz has an intriguing recipe for Cornmeal Cookies that has a photo of the dough being chopped with an evil looking slice that reminds me that I must try some of the sablé recipes that I keep seeing posted on various sites; they’re just something I have never baked and I feel left out and a rural country bumpkin and so “1980s” as my daughter keeps on telling me – her current insult of choice for us out-of-date adults.

At Cooksister, there’s a posted version of South African Milktart that uses cardamom, as well as cinnamon, infused into the milk, which must be one of my favourite combinations of sweet spices.  I love cardamom and for me it is one of those misunderstood and unloved spices that should be used much more in British sweet foods, rather than being consigned to the savoury, curry-style end of cuisine.  She also cooks a whole leg of lamb on a braai with an intriguing rub all over the lamb before cooking, which is similar-but-different in concept to my less sophisticated recipe for Barbecued Lamb at Steenbergs web site.  But I do love the idea of her Coconut Tart as I am always struggling with how to imaginatively use coconut, so this sounds great with flavours that hint back to the almond cake recipes in this round up.

Now at Helen’s wonderful blog – Fuss Free Flavours – I have been inspired by her recipe and photos for Whole Wheat Walnut Bread and Matcha Muffins, which are exquisitely green in colour.  I am inspired not only to think about using matcha in sweet bakery – perhaps fudge or sablé biscuits – but I will look to adding organic matcha tea to our tea range at Steenbergs.  I know where to get it, just have been cautious about buying it as it is damn expensive.  While never having been a fan of tofu, finding the texture just too weird to take, I am inspired by Helen’s rendition of Ottolenghi’s Black pepper Tofu recipe.

There seems a lot to write about this month, so this will follow on in next couple of days…

Recipe For Almond Cake

Saturday, August 7th, 2010

This recipe began with a blog post from David Lebovitz, who wrote that his desert island food would be Almond Cake.  So with great anticipation, I tried his recipe several weeks back, but while Sophie and I loved the marzipan-almond luxury and the old style moist, fulsome texture, we both found the taste overpoweringly sweet; I do tend towards the puritan rather than one for luxury.  I checked the recipe, which I had got correct, so decided massively to reduce the sugar content from 415.75g to 262.5g (14.7oz to 9¼ oz), which still gives a balanced and sweet cake.

The glory of this cake rests with the use of almond paste or pre-made marzipan, which is then supplemented by adding extra almond extract and vanilla extract to bolster the volatiles in the flavour profile.  You need to use a shop-bought marzipan as the texture is much finer than a home-made version. 

It is also one of those cakes which matures with age, becoming moister and the aromas maturing nicely, rather than being one of those cakes that become dry and crumbly. 

It would be fabulous eaten with a cooked seasonal berries, or with a little amaretto drizzled onto it for a boozy alternative.  There’s a creamier alternative Almond Cake recipe at Chocolate & Zucchini that adds yoghurt or sour cream for further luxury.

(Recipe adapted from David Lebovitz)

Ingredients For Almond Cake

Ingredients For Almond Cake

Ingredients

150g / 5¼ oz Fairtrade caster sugar
150g / 5¼ oz marzipan (I used Crazy Jack Organic Marzipan)
75g / 2½ oz organic ground almonds
140g / 5 oz organic plain flour
225g / 8oz unsalted butter, at room temperature and chopped into cubes
1½ tsp baking powder
¾ tsp sea salt
1 tsp natural vanilla extract (naturally, I used Steenbergs organic Fairtrade vanilla extract)
1 tsp natural almond extract (once again, I used Steenbergs natural almond extract)
6 large eggs, at room temperature and whisked gently

Preheat the oven to 160C/325F.  Take a 23cm cake tin and lightly oil the tin, removing any excess oil then line the base with baking paper.

Sieve together the baking powder, plain flour and sea salt in a mixing bowl.

Separately, put the caster sugar, marzipan, ground almonds and a tablespoon of the plain flour into a food processor.  Grind the mixture until the almond has become finer and the marzipan is broken up further, so that it is all a fine breadcrumb texture.

Add the unsalted butter, pure vanilla extract and natural almond extract and process until fluffy.

Pouring Eggs Into Batter For Almond Cake

Pouring Eggs Into Batter For Almond Cake

Add the blended eggs in stages – firstly add about a quarter and blitz until blended in then add a tablespoon of plain flour and mix, then add the next quarter, blend and add next tablespoon of plain  flour and so on.  Add the remaining plain flour and pulse a couple of times until it has just mixed together.

Pour the batter into the cake tin, scraping it all in.  Put cake mix into the oven and bake for 65 minutes or until the cake is brown on the top and set in the middle.

Almond Cake

Almond Cake

When you remove it, run a sharp knife around the edge of the cake, then leave to rest and cool completely in the tin.  Then remove the cake from the cake tin, take off the baking parchment on the base and dust with icing sugar, should you so wish.

A Slice Of Home Made Almond Cake

A Slice Of Home Made Almond Cake

Pierre Hermé’s Recipe For Raspberry And Chocolate Tart

Friday, July 9th, 2010

Pierre Hermé continues to inspire me. 

For me, I spent last Saturday in the perfect place – in the kitchen, listening to sport on BBC Radio 5 on our digital radio and baking.  It was the turn of Hermé’s Raspberry And Chocolate Tart.  The end result was sheer perfection – bittersweet flavours from 72% cocoa dark chocolate  from Trinatario cocoa beans (a natural cross between the traditional Criollo and Forasteros cocoa beans), with the succulent, melting richness of the chocolate filling that only just holds itself together; these are balanced against the tart, fruitiness of raspberries.  What is perhaps even more amazing is that it is actually really quite simple to make. 

I don’t have much more to say, except just make it for someone special and wow them, but make sure it is for someone you want to impress.

For the crust:

Prepare and bake a 22cm / 8¾ inch tart shell from Sweet Tart Dough, cooled to room temperature per previous blog

For the filling:

55g / ½ cup ripe raspberries
145g / 5oz bittersweet chocolate (I used Green & Black’s dark cooking chocolate)
115g / 4oz unsalted butter, chopped into cubes
1 large egg, at room temperature, stirred lightly with fork or whisk
3 large egg yolks, at room temperature, stirred with a fork
2 tbsp caster sugar

Preheat oven to 190oC / 375oF.

Sprinkle the raspberries into the cooked tart crust.

Baked Tart Pastry With Raspberries

Baked Tart Pastry With Raspberries

Melt the dark chocolate in a bowl over boiling water and carefully melt the butter separately in a pan.  Allow them to cool to a touch warm temperature or 60oC / 104oF.

Using a small hand whisk, gently stir the egg into the melted chocolate; don’t be vigorous as you are not trying to get air in, just to mix thoroughly.

Pouring egg into melted chocolate

Pouring egg into melted chocolate

Mixing eggs into melted chocolate

Mixing eggs into melted chocolate

Next, add the caster sugar and stir that in.

Finally, work in the melted butter.

Pour the chocolate mixture over the raspberries in the tart shell.

Pouring chocolate ganache over raspberries

Pouring chocolate ganache over raspberries

Bake the tart for 11 minutes.  This gives you a tart that is still a bit wobbly in the centre.  Leave to cool on a rack.  Serve warm after settling for about 10 minutes or cool and have cold.  I actually prefer it cold and a bit more dense the next morning – great for breakfast on a Sunday morning!

Raspberry & chocolate tart just out the oven

Raspberry & Chocolate Tart Just Out The Oven

Serve with extra red raspberries and/or cream or crème anglaise.

Raspberry & Chocolate Tart With Raspberries & Cream

Raspberry & Chocolate Tart With Raspberries & Cream

Recipe For Pomegranate Barbecue Sauce

Thursday, July 8th, 2010

We have been asked for some time whether we could source a pomegranate molasses and I am nearly there on that.  One of our current suppliers, who is based in Beirut in the Lebanon, sent us a sample of Concentrated Pomegranate Juice which is the same thing as Pomegranate Molasses, or so I am told.  It has a lovely deep, licquorice colour and a sweet and sour, tangy sort of taste.  I thought that this would give a great flavour to barbecue sauce, being less acidic and tart than adding vinegar.

Here’s what I came up with, and it’s been tried and tested, and wolfed down, by two very appreciative children, who are the meanest and harshest food critics by far.  This is a less sweet sauce than the one I posted last month and I prefer it.

Ingredients

1½ tbsp dark soy sauce
2 tbsp tomato ketchup
2tbsp pomegranate molasses
1 tbsp sunflower oil
2tbsp agave syrup*, honey or golden syrup/corn syrup
1tsp smooth mustard, ideally an English Mustard
1 garlic clove, chopped finely and crushed
¼tsp sea salt
¼tsp coarse ground black pepper
¼tsp paprika

8 chicken drumsticks

1.  Prepare all the barbecue ingredients and mix together thoroughly.

2.  Pour the Pomegranate Barbecue Sauce over the chicken drumsticks and leave to marinade for at least 30 minutes in the fridge.

Marinading Chicken In Axel's Pomegranate Barbecue Sauce

Marinading Chicken In Axel's Pomegranate Barbecue Sauce

3.  Put the oven on at 180oC / 350oF.

4.   Bake the chicken drumsticks marinaded in the Pomegranate Barbecue Sauce for about 30 minutes in the oven until crisp and cooked right through.  Enjoy immediately with potatoes and vegetables or a salad.

Barbecued Chicken Drumsticks

Barbecued Chicken Drumsticks

5.  If using to cook on a barbecue proper, mop the Pomegranate Barbecue Sauce over the meat in the last 30 minutes of the cooking time.  If you add it on any earlier, the flavours will be overpowered by the barbecue aromas and the tomato and sugars will go beyond caramelisation and burn to black cinders.

* I like agave syrup as I find it less sickly sweet than many other liquid sweeteners (even though technically it is sweeter than sugar), but you can use any of the other ones mentioned as they all give the same flavour profile to the sauce, plus caramelise decently while you are cooking the chicken legs.